Luxury watches aren’t just timepieces—they’re mechanical works of art, status symbols, and valuable assets.
Unfortunately, they’re also some of the most commonly counterfeited luxury goods in the world.
A professional pawn shop must protect both itself and the client by:
Verifying authenticity
Evaluating condition and market value
Protecting customers from buying or selling counterfeit goods
Authentication is the foundation of trust.
And in our shop, we back that trust with nearly 70 years of combined industry experience.
If you’re thinking about selling your luxury watch in Pittsburgh (or online), or using it as collateral for a pawn loan, you might be wondering:
How will a pawn shop know that it’s real? How do they decide what it’s worth?
IIn this article, we’ll walk you through exactly how professional pawn shops authenticate Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and other luxury watches before making you an offer.
By the end, you’ll understand why authentication matters and how to make sure you’re getting a fair deal.
The evaluation begins the moment we pick up your watch.
You’d be surprised how much an experienced watch buyer can tell just by the way a watch feels in their hand.
Weight: Luxury watches are made with solid metals—18k gold, platinum, or surgical-grade stainless steel. Fakes often feel too light.
Balance: Authentic watches feel balanced on the wrist and in-hand.
Finishing: Sharp engravings, brushed steel, smooth polish.
Crown & Pushers: They should screw and operate precisely.
Luxury watch brands don’t cut corners when it comes to engraving and logo placement. Every font, spacing, and detail is perfectly consistent—because Swiss manufacturers have incredibly high production standards.
For example:
We once had a customer bring in a Rolex Daytona that was so close to being real, but something felt off about the lettering on the dial.
Sure enough, under a jeweler’s loupe, the font was slightly thicker than it should have been. A tiny difference, but Rolex doesn’t make mistakes like that.
Luxury watches have a certain heft to them—especially those made from 904L stainless steel (Rolex), solid gold (Patek Philippe), or ceramic (Omega’s Dark Side of the Moon series).
If a watch feels suspiciously light, that’s a red flag. Many counterfeits use lower-quality metals, making them feel cheaper in the hand.
We also run our fingers along the edges of the case and bracelet. Genuine luxury watches are silky smooth, while many fakes have slightly rough or sharp edges due to lower manufacturing precision.
By the end of this first inspection, we’ve usually spotted most obvious fakes—but to confirm authenticity, we go deeper.
Every authentic luxury watch has unique identifiers—model and serial numbers—which help trace its origin and legitimacy.
Luxury brands stamp their serial and model numbers in very specific locations, and they use precise engraving techniques. Here’s where we typically check:
Rolex – Serial numbers are engraved between the lugs at 6 o’clock (on older models) or on the rehaut (inner bezel) on newer models. The model number is engraved at 12 o’clock between the lugs.
Omega – The serial number is usually on the case back or movement. Some models also feature it on the lug.
Patek Philippe – Patek uses separate serial numbers for the case and movement, and both need to match official records.
We cross-reference these numbers with:
Official manufacturer databases
Industry publications
Our own internal databases
If numbers are missing, incorrectly formatted, or look tampered with—that’s a major red flag.
A Rolex Submariner from 1995, for example, should have a serial number in the T, U, or W range—if we see a number that doesn’t match up with the expected production timeline, that’s a red flag.
Additionally, some pawn shops (including high-end ones) have access to stolen watch databases like The Watch Register. If a serial number pops up in those systems, we know there’s an issue.
By the time we’ve checked serial and model numbers, we have a solid idea of whether a watch is real or fake—but we’re not done yet. Next, we open up the watch and check the movement—the heart of any luxury timepiece.
This is the most technical and telling step.
A luxury watch’s movement (the mechanism inside) is where you’ll spot the most obvious signs of authenticity—or forgery.
We carefully open the caseback (when appropriate) to examine:
Movement finishing — authentic brands use polished screws, Geneva stripes, brand signatures.
Rotor design — brand logos and proper detailing.
Jewels & gear quality — cheap fakes cut corners here.
Smoothness of operation — sweeping second hand, precise function.
Even the best counterfeit watches often get the movement wrong. While the exterior of a fake Rolex or Omega might be convincing, opening the case back usually tells a different story.
Here’s what we check when we pop open a watch:
Brand-Specific Movements – Each luxury brand has its signature movement designs. Rolex, for example, uses in-house movements that are beautifully decorated, with unique engravings and finishing. Omega’s Co-Axial movements have distinctive bridges and an unmistakable layout. A fake watch might have a generic movement inside, often sourced from China or Japan, and it won’t match what should be there.
Engraving and Finishing – A real movement is a work of art. Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe all meticulously finish their movements with Geneva stripes, perlage (circular graining), and precise engravings. Counterfeits often skip these details or do them sloppily.
Rotor and Logo Details – The rotor (the part that winds an automatic watch) should have the brand’s proper markings. Rolex’s Perpetual rotors are made from 18k gold on some models and should have perfect, smooth rotation. Omega’s movements are often beautifully exposed through a sapphire case back. Fakes sometimes have cheap-looking rotors that don’t match the original design.
Even without opening the watch, there are signs that the movement might be wrong:
Smooth Sweeping Seconds Hand – Luxury automatic watches have a fluid, sweeping seconds hand (beating at around 28,800 vibrations per hour for Rolex). Many fakes tick in a choppy way because they use quartz movements instead of mechanical ones.
Loud Ticking Sound – A Rolex should be almost silent. If you hear a loud ticking, it’s likely a counterfeit with a cheap quartz movement.
Correct Functionality of Complications – If a Rolex Daytona has a chronograph that doesn’t actually function, or a GMT hand that doesn’t move as it should, that’s a red flag. Fakes often have “dummy” complications.
At first glance, a Rolex GMT-Master II may look authentic, but when you set the time, you may notice that the GMT hand isn’t independently adjustable—a feature Rolex’s movement is known for.
Pawn shops may also test the power reserve (how long the watch runs when unworn). If a Rolex Submariner should last 48 hours but stops running after 12, it could mean a fake or a non-original movement.
By checking the movement, we can confirm a watch’s authenticity with near certainty. But we’re not done yet—we also verify the materials used in the case and bracelet.
Luxury watches aren’t just valuable because of their brand name—they’re crafted from the highest-quality materials, from Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel to Patek Philippe’s solid gold and platinum cases. One of the easiest ways to spot a fake is by testing what it’s actually made of.
At a pawn shop, we don’t just take a watch’s appearance at face value. We use scientific testing methods to confirm whether the materials are genuine.
Most luxury watches use 316L stainless steel, but Rolex exclusively uses 904L stainless steel (now called Oystersteel). It’s more corrosion-resistant and has a unique shine, making it harder to counterfeit.
Luxury brands don’t cut corners when it comes to precious metals. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier use solid gold and platinum—not plating.
Pawn shops use either an acid test or an XRF (X-ray fluorescence) scanner to verify gold purity.
A fake gold Rolex might have a thin layer of gold plating over steel, which will fail an acid test.
A solid gold Patek Philippe, on the other hand, should test as 18k gold throughout.
Luxury watchmakers stamp their cases with proper hallmarks:
Rolex’s gold watches have “18K” or “750” stamped between the lugs or inside the case back.
Patek Philippe platinum watches are marked with a tiny Pt950 stamp, indicating 95% pure platinum.
Cartier gold watches are stamped with “Swiss Made” along with gold purity markings.
Even the bracelet and clasp tell a story.
A Rolex Oyster or Jubilee bracelet should feel smooth and flexible, but not loose. Counterfeit bracelets often feel stiff or rattly due to poor craftsmanship.
The clasp should snap shut perfectly. Rolex’s Glidelock and Easylink systems are smooth and precise—fake clasps often feel rough or don’t click properly.
Hidden Stamps and Engravings – The inside of a Rolex clasp should have perfect, laser-etched branding. Fake watches often get the font or spacing slightly wrong.
By the time we’ve tested the case, bracelet, and hallmarks, we can tell if a watch is made of true luxury materials or cheap substitutes.
But there’s one more step in the authentication process—checking the dial, hands, and small details that counterfeiters often miss.
Luxury watches are made to an incredibly high standard.
Counterfeiters often miss the fine print—literally.
We examine under magnification:
Dial printing quality
Date window and magnification (Rolex Cyclops lens should be exactly 2.5x)
Hand movement precision
Lume brightness and uniformity
Spelling errors, logo inconsistencies
The first thing we inspect under a jeweler’s loupe or microscope is the dial’s lettering, markers, and logos.
Luxury watches have crisp, flawless printing. Every letter should be perfectly spaced and aligned. Rolex, for example, uses high-precision printing that appears almost “etched” into the dial rather than simply printed on top.
Common Fake Dial Mistakes:
Blurred or uneven text (especially in “Oyster Perpetual” or “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on Rolex dials).
Incorrect font thickness—some fakes have letters that are slightly too bold or too thin.
Misaligned markers—luxury watches are engineered for perfection. If an hour marker is even slightly off-center, it’s likely a fake.
The second big giveaway is the way the hands move.
A genuine Rolex, Omega, or Patek Philippe has ultra-smooth hand movement. Rolex watches, for example, beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour, creating a fluid, sweeping seconds hand motion.
Fake watches often have choppy, stuttering hand movements because they use cheaper automatic or quartz movements. If a supposed Rolex Submariner has a ticking seconds hand instead of a smooth sweep, it’s a dead giveaway.
Luxury watch hands are precisely shaped and balanced. The hour, minute, and second hands are made with perfect symmetry and finished with high-quality materials.
Fake hands may be too short, too thick, or have an odd shape. For example, on a real Rolex Daytona, the subdial hands are perfectly sized—on a fake, they may be too short or sit at the wrong angle.
Luxury watches use high-quality luminescent materials for night visibility.
Rolex uses Chromalight, which glows bright blue for up to 8 hours. Omega uses Super-LumiNova, which shines green or blue, depending on the model.
Fake watches often use cheap lume that fades quickly. A quick test? Charge the watch under a bright light for 30 seconds and turn off the lights. If the glow is dim or fades fast, it’s probably fake.
One of the hardest things for counterfeiters to replicate is Rolex’s Cyclops date magnifier.
A real Rolex magnifies the date by exactly 2.5x, making the numbers appear large and clear.
Many fake Rolexes have weak magnification, making the date look too small or distorted.
A few years ago, we had someone bring in a Rolex Date that looked great at first glance. But the Cyclops lens only magnified the date by 1.5x instead of 2.5x. That’s all I needed to know it was fake.
Once we’ve authenticated your watch—from the movement to the materials, dial, and every fine detail—the last step is answering the question you actually care about:
What’s it worth?
At this point, we shift from watch detectives to market experts—because verifying authenticity is only half the job. The other half is knowing the fair market value so we can make you a competitive offer.
There are several factors we consider when evaluating the price we can pay you:
Some luxury watches always hold strong market value because of demand. For example:
Rolex Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II
Omega Speedmaster Professional (Moonwatch)
Patek Philippe Nautilus, Aquanaut
Even within brands, certain dial colors, bezel options, or limited editions can command a premium.
For example, I’ve had customers shocked to find out their blue dial Rolex Datejust was worth considerably more than a silver one—simply because collectors love the blue dial.
A watch in excellent condition with minimal wear will always fetch more.
We look at:
Scratches, dents, or damage
Stretching or wear in the bracelet
Any signs of previous polishing (which can reduce value if done poorly)
Original box, warranty card, service records, and manuals can easily add hundreds or even thousands of dollars to the offer. This is what’s called a “full set” in the watch world, and collectors pay extra for it.
Luxury watch values fluctuate just like any market.
During economic booms, prices tend to rise.
Some models skyrocket due to social media buzz, celebrity wear, or limited availability.
Others drop when demand cools.
A good pawn shop keeps track of the current resale market, auction results, and grey market listings.
When we make you an offer, it’s not just a guess—it’s based on real-time data and what we know the watch can resell for in today’s market.
A watch that has been regularly serviced by an authorized dealer or watchmaker is always more valuable than one with unknown history. If the watch has:
Aftermarket parts (bezels, dials, bracelets)
Non-factory customizations
That can lower the value significantly. Collectors and resellers prefer original, unaltered watches.
Once we’ve completed authentication and evaluation, we’ll make you an offer based on:
Current market resale value
Condition and completeness
Demand for your specific model
How quickly we believe we can resell the watch
Our goal is always to be transparent and fair. We’re not just interested in making a quick buck—we want you to walk away feeling like you got a good deal, because that’s how we earn repeat business.
The process we’ve walked you through—from checking the movement and materials to inspecting the tiniest details—isn’t about making things complicated or gatekeeping the industry. It’s about making sure you get a fair and honest evaluation based on facts, craftsmanship, and market value.
And here’s something we want every customer to know:
Yes, we use microscopes, gold testers, serial number databases, and industry tools—but most of what we know comes from years of experience.
Between our team, we’ve spent decades in the jewelry and watch industry.
Some of us have been in this business for nearly 30 years. Others have spent 20 years not only buying and selling luxury watches but also servicing, repairing, and studying them inside and out.
We’ve handled everything from vintage Rolex Submariners to modern Patek Philippe complications.
We follow trade publications, auction results, and industry reports daily, so we know what’s hot, what’s rare, and what’s overhyped.
That kind of experience can’t be faked.
So when you bring your watch to our pawn shop, you’re not walking into some quick-cash operation where we guess at values.
You’re speaking with people who live and breathe this world, who will explain every step of the process, and who want you to feel confident in the offer you receive.
Whether you decide to sell, pawn, or simply get your watch evaluated out of curiosity—you’ll leave knowing the truth about your timepiece.
And that’s what The Watchmaker’s Eye is really about: protecting your investment and helping you make the right decision.
FIND US HERE
715 Liberty Ave
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
TRADING HOURS
Monday: Closed
Tuesday: 10:00 AM – 05:00 PM
Wednesday: 10:00 AM – 05:00 PM
Thursday: 10:00 AM – 07:00 PM
Friday: 10:00 AM – 05:00 PM
Saturday: 10:00 AM – 03:00 PM
Sunday: Closed
GET IN TOUCH
(412) 566-1728
info@broffsdiamonds.com
